WHAT IS DOUBLE GAUZE?

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One of the fabric types that is always part of the collections from nani IRO is the Japanese double gauze. With a simple, elegant attitude and soft hand, it is by far one our favorite types of fabric.
By the word double, it is almost self-explaining that it’s something that is double. 
Gauze is a very fine and thin weave - often made of cotton, but it can also be linen or a blend of cotton and linen.
Gauze is constructed with a leno weave, where two warp threads are twisted around the weft thread so the weave is strong, but remains thin, airy and a bit transparent to allow air and light to pass through.

Double gauze is simply two layers of gauze. When the two thin layers of gauze are united to one layer, the light and airy structure is preserved, while adding more substance - and it is no longer transparent.
The two layers are tacked together with a sort of blind stitch lenght-, and cross wise, with approx. 1 cm regular intervals. They are invisible on the front layer of the fabric/right side and more visible on the back layer/reverse side.
The loose weave in both layers makes double gauze breathable and airy, while adding a little weight and substance, allowing it to shape and drape.
It is nice and soft, and in every way comfortable to touch and wear!

Most often, it is only one layer of the double gauze, the right side, that is colored/printed, while the other layer, the wrong side, is an unbleached gauze. The loose weave binds the color and print really well, and the effect with the two layers gives a beautiful depth in the surface, when you can sense the unbleached layer through the colored/printed outer layer.
The double gauze quality from nani IRO is really good at retaining colors and prints, and even after many washes and drying, the intensity of the colors is preserved without getting a ‘dull' and ‘worn’ look.
It does not necessarily apply to all double gauze qualities, but with the nani IRO qualities we are dealing with a piece of craftsmanship of very high quality, which is clearly reflected in use.

There are other types of double gauze in the fabric stores, many of which are more like cloth diapers, being more crinkled and shrunk, because they are pre-washed and treated differently.
The weaving in these other double gauze qualities is rarely quite as delicate as in the double gauze quality from nani IRO, and they often appear more ‘dull’ in the intensity of the colors and prints. The quality of them is rarely as good and strong as we experience with the quality from nani IRO.
We don’t mean or intend to talk the other qualities down, but it’s important to emphasize that there is a great difference which is reflected in both price and quality - even though it is often sold under the same name.

HOW TO TREAT AND CARE FOR DOUBLE GAUZE

You must start by washing it.

The loose weave pulls together in wash, which means shrinkage up to 8-10% in the first wash.
In addition, double gauze changes look and structure when it is washed, because the weave pulls together - and it’s important to have that under control before you cut and sew. Double gauze is not particularly delicate when it comes to washing. We always recommend to wash as gentle as possible, since that is best both regarding the environment and the fabric’s lifetime, but a double gauze can easily survive both 60 and 90 degrees. Some prints and colors can succumb to 90 degrees, but the fabric can handle it - and most of the prints can too actually.
I have sewn both clothes and bedding of double gauze for my little ones, where both 60 and 90 degrees some times have been a necessity, so I know what I’m talking about :-).

In general use, we recommend 30-40 degrees on a regular machine program.
When it’s necessary to wash on a more gentle program it is for the seams and stitching in your finished garment. Double gauze has a tendency to ravel, if you haven’t finished your seams good enough - and a hard cycle in the washing machine will reveal that.

And let's just stick to the raveling point of double gauze. One of the most important things when sewing in double gauze is that you finish all raw edges. If it gets the chance it will ravel, due to the loose weave. 
Be sure to carefully serge or zigzag all raw edges, and be careful not to use too narrow seam allowances, so the seam will be too close to the edge of the fabric. Minimum 1 cm, but preferably 1.5 cm. You can also make French seams, so you get the raw edges all hidden inside - but again, be careful not to get the seam allowance cut too far down before the final stitch, because then it will ravel anyway, since the weave will slowly loosen around the stitches .
That being said, it is extremely rare that we have experienced specific issues with the above, and it should definitely not stand as a fright and warning against getting into sewing with double gauze. But it is worth mentioning because it is such a pity when it happens, if it could have been avoided with careful focus on finishing the raw edges.

Back to the washing.

Double gauze dries well on a line, and if you make sure it is smoothed out so that it does not wrinkle while drying, then it’s ready to wear again without ironing. The few wrinkles that may be there, will disappear when you wear it.
I usually let it hang until the it’s almost dry, and then I give it 5-10 min. in the dryer.
Then it becomes so airy and so soft, and any wrinkle turns into a soft curve that gives the fabric the look and feel you want with double gauze.
I almost never iron double gauze. Firstly, because of its airy and soft structure, that will actually fade a bit when ironing it. Secondly, because it can actually be difficult to iron nicely. Once it has been washed a few times, and the space between the two layers has caught some air, it’s actually difficult to iron neatly without small folds. Third, because it is rarely necessary.
It may be, that there is a collar on a shirt or a facing that needs to be put in place, but that is it.

WHAT TO SEW WITH DOUBLE GAUZE?

Everything.

There’s almost no limits to what you can use double gauze for, and I speak of personal experience, since I have tried almost everything with double gauze. From baby bedding, blankets, pillows and children's clothes to dresses, shirts, trousers, blouses, skirts, scarves and even potholders, hair bands and bags. I don't quilt, but I've seen many beautiful quilting projects with double gauze as well.
You must be aware that it might give in a little when you wear it - again due to the loose weave. So if you make trousers, there may be knees and butt in them when you wear them. So choose a  loose cut where it doesn't matter.

Despite the thin layers that may seem delicate at first hand, double gauze has great strength and durability, which really makes it suitable for everything. I have done the kindergarten test several times with great success, and when that test is passed, all other tests are unnecessary :-)
Double gauze is often a popular choice for spring and summer because the light, airy and breathable fabric is nice and comfortable when it gets warm. Personally, I use it all year round - in the cooler months often with something underneath, or sewn with lining, to add a non-airy layer.
Lining and double gauze I can be a good combination, because double gauze does not slide particularly well on other textiles, eg. tights if you sew skirts and dresses.

We have collected a couple of our own projects with double gauze here, which can serve as inspiration if you want to introduce your wardrobe to this amazing material.
If this is not enough, both Google, Pinterest and Instagram (#doublegauze, #japanesedoublegauze, #naniiro) can help you with more images and projects for inspiration. If you ever come by our store, we have several models sewn in double gauze, which can be seen, touched and tried on, so you can feel how satisfying it is to wear in every way.